Keeping cats safe on Bonfire Night

This post comes from pet containment company Protectapet as we have come what can be a stressful time of year for cat owners - firework season. 

In 2014 pet insurers Agria reported 22% more pets go missing on bonfire night than any other night of the year. While fireworks can be beautiful and spectacular, without understanding the context it is easy to understand why cats mistake the explosions for a cause of serious anxiety. Here are our top tips for keeping your cats safe and calm even through a perilous time of year:

• Train your cat to recall from an early age: rattling the food bowls, shaking a treat-tin or giving a high-pitched call can alert your cat to return to your house from several gardens away.

Source: author

• Create lots hidey-holes and beds in your house: cats with more choices about where they can go to feel safe will be less anxious.

• Research when professional organised bonfires are on: the weekend evenings surrounding bonfire night and Halloween can be cause for human celebration.

• Plug in a pheromone diffuser such as Feliway at least a month before the firework season begins

• Call your cat inside several hours before darkness on the nights you know fireworks will be discharged. If you have SurePetCare Connect, a selective cat flap that allows you to control your cats’ access to the outdoors, you can set a schedule for when he or she will be allowed back outdoors on your phone.

• If you have concerns about your cat going missing before you get chance to call them inside for the evening, ProtectaPet offer cat-proof fencing or garden canopies to keep your cat safe outdoors and you’ll know where to find them even if they are too scared to move. 

Fencing can fit to an existing garden boundary.  Source: Protectapet

"Catio" coming straight off the house.  

Cat run with installed boundary fence

Cat canopy fully enclosing the garden

Find out more about these options offered by Protectapet on their website and in the following video: 

Source: cats.org.uk

Most of these points are covered in Cats Protection's firework guidance.  

There are also methods of desensitisation, which can be started in the spring/summer months by using a CD of firework sounds at a very low level and slowly increasing the volume over following weeks depending on tolerance - calming supplement company Zylkene provide some guidance on this.  

Dogs Trust also provide fireworks samples to download to use for desensitisation: Sound therapy for pets

Living in Harmony

Source: Cats Protection stock image

According to the PDSA PAW Report 2018, 43% of cats (that's 4.8 million) live in multi-cat households, with an average of 2.59 cats per household.  The report states that "14% of these cats – around 1.6 million – live with another cat they don’t always get along with and 6% of cats live with more than one cat but some aren’t keen on each other". 

The stress of living in a multi-cat household can result in unwanted behaviours: 77% of owners state that their cat performs at least one behaviour they would like to change but 74% of owners believed their cats were not stressed.  It appears there could be a lack of understanding in cat owners of the link between stress in cats and the development of unwanted behaviours.  


The root of how cats interact comes from their history as solitary predators.  Descended from the African wildcat, our cats are designed to hunt, eat, drink and sleep alone.  In fact all cats except lions, who live in prides, live in this way.  As people are a social species they often wish to keep more than one cat.  

African wild cat (Source: http://www.krugerpark.co.za)

Some cats do get on well together forming social groups and this is displayed by grooming each other (allo-grooming), rubbing against each other (allo-rubbing), sleeping cuddled up together, spending time together and playing.  This video produced by Cats Protection outlines whether your cats may be friends or foe.  By looking at these signs it is possible to work out which cats are in the same social groups.  

HOW TO HELP

Source: PDSA Paw Report, 2018

The video mentions the need for each cat in the household to have its own resources, the minimum of which include a food source, water source, litter tray, scratching post and resting area.  

The PAW Report (2018) looked at resources provided by cat owners with 2 or more cats:

• 66% provide 1 or 0 litter trays
• 55% provide 1 or 0 water bowls
• 73% provide 2 or fewer cat beds
• 16% provide only 1 food bowl

Despite many cats having to share resources 95% 
of owners state that their cat is happy.


Top tips for managing resources:

1. Keep food and water sources away from the litter tray - would you want to use the toilet in your kitchen?
2. Position food and water sources separate from each other - cats perceive water next to food as contaminated.
3. Follow the general rule of one resource per cat plus one extra.
4. Ensure the resources are suitable for the individual cats; for example different scratching options were discussed in my last post and litter trays were discussed in this previous post.
5. Position the resources in suitable places for the cats, not for owner convenience.  Would the cats rather not have to interact to reach their resources?  Do they spend time on different floors of the house?  Cats should be able to reach resources independently of each other.
6. Do not position resources near to entry/exit points and not at bottle-neck areas where cats would need to come into close proximity to each other
7. Clean litter trays regularly - cats hate soiled latrines, particularly when they smell of another cat.
8. Try to make their environment predictable with as much routine as possible. Unpredictability has been found to result in toileting outside the litter tray and reluctance to eat. 
9. Offer outdoor access that is predictable, which can promote natural behaviours such as territory marking and hunting.

Source: author

Feliway Friends is a synthetic pheromone product designed to mimic the appeasing pheromone given off by a mother cat to her kittens, to enhance their bond and promote harmony.  This can help to reduce conflict between cats and prevent fighting, chasing, blocking and staring. Find out more in this video from the manufacturer and also from their website - More about Feliway Friends

Source: protectapet.com

The neighbourhood cat population density can be a stress factor for both outdoor and indoor cats as cats can be observed through windows and they may enter via cat flaps. Solutions could include using frosting on exposing doors and windows to provide privacy (Purlfrost is one example), installing a selective entry cat flap (pet doors by SureFlap), using safe deterrents in the garden or considering a secure garden to exclude other cats: ProtectaPet supply purpose built fencing and enclosures, which would provide your cat with a safe and predictable territory environment.

Source: cats.org.uk

There is a lot more information on multi-cat households on the International Cat Care website: Multi-cat households and how to survive them and also in the Cats Protection Cats Living Together document. 

The need to scratch

Source: author

Unfortunately many cats are rehomed due to their scratching behaviour if their owners find it unacceptable.  It can lead to damage of property and furnishings and is likely a main reason why so many property owners will not allow pets at rented properties. This post will explore why cats need to perform scratching behaviour and how we can provide suitable facilities for them. 

Cats have an innate (inbuilt) need to perform scratching behaviour for two reasons:

• Maintain healthy sharp claws - scratching aids shedding of claw sheaths
• Communication 
• cats have scent glands between their toes and scratching allows cats use their pheromones to mark their territory
• the scratching also leaves vertical marks for visual communication of territory

Cats definitely do not scratch to be naughty and it is important not to tell them off for this behaviour.  This can lead to the cat becoming anxious and may develop into other unwanted behaviours. 

There are many different options for scratching facilities to suit individual cats.  It is important to consider ideal scratching post:

• Tall scratch posts allow cats to fully stretch.  Still have the post you bought your cat as a kitten? It may be time to upgrade!
• Posts should be sturdy with a heavy base so they are stable when being used - a wobbly post could put some cats off using them
• As already mentioned, cats scratch vertically so a vertical thread would be the most appropriate

Other things to consider include:

Source: author

Small kittens and older cats with arthritis may prefer to scratch on horizontal surfaces - there are scratch boxes and mats available for this.  

There should be one scratching post available per cat in a multicat household, in different areas of the house to avoid conflict and competition. 

Cover any targeted furniture such as sofas, table legs or door frames with shiny or plastic material such as a bin bag or foil to deter the cat from scratching there and place the post or scratch mat near to the area.  Cats can also like their scratching items near to where they sleep. 

Using catnip on the post and base can attract the cat's attention and use fishing rod toys to play around the post will make it a positive item for the cat to interact with. 

Source: author

Feliscratch is a great product from CEVA who make Feliway.  It is designed into liquid pipettes that are applied to a scratch post or mat in order to mimic the physical scratch marks left by the cat whilst artificially representing cat marking pheromones.  

Source: feliway.com/uk

There are detailed instructions to follow that should lead to the scratching behaviour being redirected onto the appropriate scratching facility! All the info can be found on the CEVA website and the video below shows how to use the product. 

Top tips for taking your cat to the vets

Whether your cat is a frequent visitor to the vets or only requires their yearly booster, using a cat carrier is often a source of stress for cat and owners alike.  

Why is this an important issue to target?
Some cats may not receive the treatment they need as owners cannot physically get them to the vets.  Also some cats are so stressed when they reach the vets that their behaviour makes it difficult for vets to assess them or carry out procedures and tests they need to. 

What type of carrier? 

• Large enough for the cat to stand up and turn around - think about how big your cat is, they are all individuals
• Front door for the cat to enter
• Top door for the cat to be accessed and removed from the carrier
• Top half of the carrier should be able to be removed completely
• Slats in the sides allow some vision and for treats or toys to be posted into the carrier
• Alternatively wire mesh carriers that open at the top can also be useful, providing they are covered when travelling and in the waiting room

Examples of ideal cat carriers
N.B. the wire carrier would need to be covered with a blanket
Sources: resetera.com /  thepurrcompany.com

No top door but Taz feeling pretty happy!
Source: author

Ideally the carrier should be part of the furniture so the cat does not just associate it with negative experience but can build a positive relationship with it.  

The best way to achieve compliance from your cat is to invest some time into training them to feel comfortable in the carrier.  This is a long term approach but should reduce your cat's stress levels when they need to travel either to the vets or indeed a boarding cattery.  



The following video is from the International Cat Care YouTube channel playlist for cat owners and shows a step by step guide on how to achieve this.  

Placing the cat into the carrier 

Firstly ensure the carrier contains comfortable and familiar bedding.  Using Feliway spray at least 15 minutes before can help your cat feel more at ease.  Make sure you are prepared with the carrier lid or door open before you pick up your cat.  

How you handle your cat to put them into the carrier is the next key factor and this video also from International Cat Care has some great tips - Putting your cat in a cat carrier  

Travelling

When carrying the carrier by the handle use the other hand to steady it so the cat has a comfortable experience and the carrier is not swinging.  Most cats benefit from the carrier being covered to minimise the effects of stressful stimuli and to help them feel more safe.  

This video looks in some depth into each sensation involved with travel, which can be explored once the cat is happy and comfortable in the carrier. 

In the waiting room
Are you registered at a Cat Friendly Clinic?  If so there should be a cat only waiting area with places for your carrier to sit above ground level, covers for your carrier and less or no contact with dogs.  To find out more about Cat Friendly Clinics and to find your nearest accredited veterinary practice please see their website. 

If there is not a cat only waiting area put your carrier on a spare chair or your lap, ensure it is covered and try to move away from dog owners and the busy reception desk.  

At the appointment
The cat will often now be reluctant to leave the carrier but never pull them from the carrier, do not tip the basket up and do not grasp them by the scruff of the neck as this will be very stressful for them.  Be patient and chat to the vet initially about the reason for the appointment, giving the cat a chance to come out on their own.  The cat may be enticed with some tasty treats or a toy. 

If the cat would rather stay in the carrier then remove the top half slowly and carefully, allowing the cat to sit in the base for examination by the vet.  The blanket used to cover your carrier for travelling could then be used to provide some cover for the now exposed cat, whilst allowing the vet to access them.  Talk softly and handle the cat slowly and gently.  

If you cannot remove the top of the carrier, slide a hand slowly into the carrier and around the back of the cat.  Use the other hand to slide the bedding out, with the hand inside the carrier gently scooping the cat forwards and out of the carrier. 

The following video is designed for vets and nurses but shows the techniques described above:

Alternatively, could your vet or nurse come to your home to carry out the appointment?  This may result in extra charges, particularly for vet visits, but avoiding the stress of the carrier and travelling may be very beneficial to some cats. 

Source: cats.org.uk/veterinary-guides

For more information on the importance of vet care for your cat please read our Cats Protection booklet You and Your Vet.