Aggressive cats?

Heythrop Resort
Image source: author

Just before COVID-19 took over our lives I attended the International Society of Feline Medicine UK Congress held in Oxfordshire for vets and veterinary nurses.  At the beautiful Heythrop Resort we spent two days enjoying sixteen lectures on a wide variety of feline topics.  There were four great behaviour lectures about aggressive behaviour, training your cat to use an inhaler and also first aid advice we as nurses can provide to clients.  

One lecture was entitled "I'm not bad, I just do bad things: reframing our thoughts on aggressive cats", given by Vicky Halls, and in this post I will outline some of the main points I took home from this lecture. 

Image source: author

The first major point we learned that I want to highlight is that if a cat displays "aggressive" behaviour, it is a normal response (for the cat) to an event, NOT a temperament trait.  These responses are a normal part of predation, play and social conflict and essential for survival.  

However, human-direct aggression can be dangerous if it results in infected bite wounds, it can make handling cats challenging and can cause fear and distress to the owner, causing the owner-cat relationship to break down.  Not to mention potential effects on the cat: rehoming, punishment, distress and poor welfare.  

These behavioural responses to events stem from the brain, when it opts for the most appropriate behaviour to try and improve the situation.  There are thought to be seven motivational-emotional systems in the brain, according to Jaak Panksepp (2010).  These systems are involved in the generation of responses to different events or stimuli, both positive and negative.  

Panksepp 2010. Pain is actually considered part of the fear system but is 
an important factor when considering feline behaviour
Image source: author

In Sarah Ellis' lecture on feline communication she also explained further why cats happen to have these motivational-emotional systems.  Cats do not have the same cognitive ability as humans to discuss their emotions, reflect on them, understand how they shape behaviour or how they relate to experiences in the past.  In cats, they exist in the ancestral part of the brain responsible for "instinctual emotional arousal" - causing those innate behaviours that makes a cat a cat.  

Vicky Halls advises a helpful way to categorise aggressive behaviour for veterinary nurses and I feel these four categories should hopefully make sense to owners too. 

Click to enlarge
Image source: author
Content source: Vicky Halls, ISFM UK Congress 2020

The defensive response is one veterinary staff can see in practice.  If the cat experiences an approaching threat that is inescapable but far away, the cat will usually hide or freeze, making itself appear smaller.  If the threat comes closer and seems avoidable the cat will attempt to run away.  Once the threat is unavoidable the cat may resort to the fight response.  

Cats will only use the fight response if they feel it is necessary as this risks sustaining injury, which is not wise when the cat is responsible for feeding and taking care of itself. They will often give signals before resorting to swiping / scratching / biting, through body language cues.  Most veterinary practices now take measures to combat stress in cats visiting for appointments and those staying in for treatment, in order to reduce their anxiety about approaching threats, namely the staff!

Dr Sarah Ellis discussing feline communication at the ISFM UK Congress
Source: author

This defensive response is FEAR-BASED and may be affected by the cat's previous experiences.  Was the cat poorly socialised as a kitten and so has fewer positive associations with people?  Do they remember negative handling experiences?  Are they a naturally anxious cat?  Does the location or situation cause added stress?  

Cats that appear offensive have learned from previous experiences that the defensive "fight" method is the only response that will cause the threat to go away and will learn to use this approach again must quicker in future.  

So considering all this, it is important to move away from using the term "aggressive" for the cat, but rather use it to describe the behaviour if needed. Another commonly used term is "inappropriate" behaviour, but this also is misleading as the behaviour is appropriate to the cat!  If we consider the circumstances of the behaviour and what led up to its occurrence we can often decipher the emotion the cat is feeling and what may have prompted them to respond in this way.  

Colwyn Cats Protection foster cat Sammy, coming out of his hide to enjoy a chin
and cheek rub, rolling and kneading his paws, Sammy was given time to
make the first move and the hide is always there to retreat to if needed
Image source: author

Below I'll run through the advice given by Vicky Halls on preventing the most common behavioural responses and hope the points above have put "aggressive" behaviour into perspective.  

If any of you are experiencing aggressive behaviour with your cats, I would advise, as with any change in behaviour, to seek veterinary advice to initially rule out any health conditions that may be contributing.  If your cat is fit and healthy then hopefully your vets and veterinary nurses can offer advice depending on your individual circumstances.  If their first aid advice doesn't help then they can guide you to an accredited feline behaviourist for specialist advice. 

Prevention of defensive behaviour 

• Behave respectfully when interacting with your cat - this video from Sarah Ellis at International Cat Care runs through some key things to avoid when handling and you can see other great videos on their YouTube channel

• Allow the cat to initiate contact - the cat being in control is important to reduce anxiety
• Keep physical contact low intensity and of short duration - this is giving gentle fuss that the cat enjoys for a short period of time before they become too aroused or fed up!



Image from Vicky Halls' lecture ISFM UK Congress 2020

• Breeders of kittens should actively ensure they are well bred from parents with good temperaments, well socialised, are fed well, are raised in a low stress environment and to avoid early weaning as this can increase the risk of aggressive behaviour (Ahola & Lohi, 2017). 

Prevention of aggressive behaviour due to play/predatory/attention-seeking response

• Avoid inappropriate play with kittens - no teasing with hands or feet, using toys only. If kittens attempt to go for hands and feet, do not reward or reinforce the behaviour, distract with toys to redirect them onto a suitable target

Prevention of frustration related aggression

• Meeting all your cat's environmental needs is so important to prevent frustration. The AAFP & ISFM Feline Environmental Needs Guidelines describe everything cats need in their environment, based around the five pillars of a healthy environment (link below).

AAFP & ISFM Environmental Needs Guidelines

• Ensure the cat has unrestricted access to all its resources:  food, water, toilet areas, scratching posts, sleeping areas etc. 
• Provide enrichment such as play time and feeding enrichment - see my previous post Feeding our cats: "think outside the bowl" for ideas!
• Avoid play that may cause frustration such as using laser pens - always end a short laser session by throwing a toy or treat so the cat can achieve a kill!
• Ideally allow the cat unrestricted access outdoors
• Provide three dimensions of activity with places to get up high

RESOURCES

Free Downloadable Guides - Vicky Halls website

AAFP & ISFM Feline Environmental Needs Guidelines - full information on your cat's environmental needs

Aggression to humans - International Cat Care - lots of FAQs answered on this page

Understanding your cat's behaviour - CP guidance  -  more information on the natural behaviour of cats and interacting with them

Jaak Panksepp, 2010. Affective neuroscience of the emotional BrainMind: evolutionary perspectives and implications for understanding depression.  

Ahola & Lohi, 2017. Early weaning increases aggression and stereotypic behaviour in cats.

A new addition

Source: author

Whether it is your first cat or your next of many, preparation is key to give your cat the best chance of settling in smoothly.  

PREPARATION
Starting your cat or kitten off in a single room will help them to adjust from the confines of their foster pen or room into having more space.  All your cat's resources should be placed in this room ready for their arrival to minimise disruption when they are settling in:

• Food area
• Water placed away from food
• Litter tray(s) placed away from food and water
• The general rule is one per cat plus one extra!
• Toys
• Scratching facilities
• Your kitten will require a larger post as an adult so be prepared to upgrade
• Resting places
• A piece of bedding from their foster home will provide a reassuring familiar scent
• Hiding places
• igloo beds or even a cardboard box with comfy bedding
• High areas to escape and hide

A pheromone spray or plugin used in this room could help your cat to feel more at ease, for example Feliway Classic or Zenifel. These products mimic the facial pheromone and aim to relieve stress and promote a safe happy environment. Don't forget, Feliway Friends can help to reduce conflict between cats living together, so once your new addition needs to meet any existing cats Feliway Friends would be a good idea!  

Taz with his Feliway plug in
Source: author

International Cat Care also have some very useful tips:

• Avoid a room with full-length curtains that might be very inviting for kittens to run up!
• Assess the room and remove any potential hazards such as fireplaces, poisonous plants/substances or small hidey areas where kittens may become stuck. 
• Remove all breakable objects and secure cupboard doors
• Ensure windows are securely fastened
• Ensure kittens are not left unattended with toys on lengths of string

TRAVELLING HOME
My previous blog post Top Tips For Taking Your Cat To The Vets mentions the ideal type of carrier that allows for easier loading of your cat and suitable access to the cat when needed at the vets.  Again a pheromone spray in the carrier and in the car can help to make the cat feel more at ease - always allow 15 minutes before the cat enters the area after spraying.  It is best to cover the cat carrier with a light towel or blanket to help the cat feel safe as they like small secure hiding places. 

STARTING OUT
It is advised to allow your new cat time to adjust to their new surroundings on their own for a short while before expecting confident interactions from them.  

When approaching the cat, they will feel less threatened if you lower yourself to their level.  International Cat Care have produced a great series of videos for cat owners on how best to interact with cats: 

If your cat is not ready to approach you, do not force an interaction but sit and talk to them gently - make yourself inviting and wait for them to come to you. Try not to put a time limit on this, having patience is so important to allow your cat to remain in control.  

If you find your cat is continually hiding, it is still best to just give them more time, as long as they are coming out to eat and toilet. Make sure their food source is placed close to their hiding spot so they feel secure.  Treats and toys may encourage them from their hiding place - play helps to relieve stress and can be the first step of the bonding process without the need for physical contact. 

Cats Protection advise that kittens may need more intervention when settling in than adult cats as they may feel unsettled on leaving their mother and siblings. Make sure their cosy secure bed is at ground level, a low-volume radio may help to keep them company and you may need to indicate the location of their resources. 

MEETING EVERYONE
Introducing family members one by one will help to not overwhelm the cat - it is understandable for children to be particularly excited but they do need to be kept calm.  It is important to show children the most appropriate way to stroke and interact so the cat is always in control - any cat may defend themselves if they feel threatened or pushed too far.  During the first 8 weeks of their life, if your kitten has not encountered children, people of different genders, wearing different clothing, with different tones of voice, they may well be initially wary of anyone different to who they are used to. 

Source: author

Most cats will not feel confident to be picked up in the early stages and may never enjoy it - make sure you handle your cat in a way it is comfortable with.  Being picked up takes away the cat's control over the situation, which can lead to stress, causing them to try to escape. 

GOING OUTSIDE

Before your cat explores the rest of the house, a top tip is to use a soft cloth to gently wipe your cat's cheeks to pick up their facial pheromones.  This cloth can then be rubbed on points in the house at cat height to make the house smell more familiar. 

Source: author

Allow your cat to come out of their room of their own accord and keep the door open so they can hurry back to their safe area should they feel the need. Make sure all external doors and windows are shut so they can’t escape outside just yet.

Don’t let your cat outside until they have fully adjusted to their new home and know where their food will be coming from – this usually takes between three and four weeks. If your cat has not been neutered, don’t let them out unsupervised until the operation has been carried out by your vet. Kittens should always be supervised when outdoors. When you start to let your cat out, do it when they’re hungry so that you can tempt them back inside with food, until they are used to coming back to the house freely.  If you can train them to recall before going outdoors, even better!

RESOURCES:

Welcome Home - Cats Protection guidance on introducing a new addition to an existing cat or dog

International Cat Care: helping your cat/kitten settle

International Cat Care YouTube channel  - playlists covering cat handling for owners and training cats to improve well-being

Keeping cats safe in the garden - article by Alex Taylor "The Cat Nurse" and her cat Monkey

Check out my other blog posts on "Living in harmony" and "Top tips for taking your cat to the vets"